Wiring, Halos, etc.

One quick note before we begin. When you see "right side" and "left side" we mean it in terms of turn signals, so, from the perspective of you driving the vehicle.

Aiming the Headlights and Projector Low Beam Cutoff Line

To aim the beam, it's just like adjusting it on your stock headlights. There are plenty of guides on forums and YouTube videos on that. As far as the projector low beam cutoff line is concerned, when you have properly aimed your headlights, it should look something like the red line in the photo below

The right side should be slightly higher than the left side and there should be a level line that connects left and right cutoff lines. I do my absolute best to align the cutoff when assembling the retrofits but there may be slight adjustments necessary due to fitment on your vehicle. So, if the cutoffs aren't in a straight line after you aim your headlights, that is to say, they are slanted in some way, then perform the following steps:

1. Gently remove the rubber dust cover from the back of the headlight assembly to access the lock collar.
2. With the provided snap ring pliers (see photo below), insert the tips of the pliers into the slots on the back of the lock collar at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. VERY SLOWLY/GENTLY turn in the correct direction to level the cutoff line. That lock collar is what is fastening the projector to the housing so it is imperative that you use the provided tool to make adjustments. DO NOT spin the lock collar by hand and/or wrench to avoid loosening the lock collar unintentionally. We have applied thread lock to the lock collar but spinning the lock collar directly can potentially loosen it. Refer to the two photos below to see where the pliers can be inserted. The second photo shows toothpicks inserted into the slots so you can identify where they are located.
3. Once you have the cutoff line leveled, secure the rubber dust cover back into place.
4. Repeat on the other side if needed.

Wiring Overview

We've tried to make the wiring as easy to understand as possible. The amount of connectors on the back of the headlight assembly will obviously vary based on how many halos, demon eyes, LED strips, etc. are in your particular retrofit model. Some of the connectors, even though they are the same type, can intentionally only be plugged in one way (refer to photo below). Any connectors that are identical types and oriented the same way will be labeled for your convenience (refer to photo below).

Wiring Harness Types

If your 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner HAS Daytime Running Lights (DRL), congrats, because you get to use a newer style simplified harness. All you do is plug each side into the 4Runner's existing headlight (H4) socket and you're good to go with the actual headlight portion of the retrofit, that is, the low beam, high beam and dash high beam blue indicator will function as intended. See photo below for DRL harness information.

If your 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner DOES NOT HAVE Daytime Running Lights (DRL), then you received a different wire harness. The non-DRL headlights use negative switching to activate the low and high beam so we need a different harness than the one above for the low and high beam to work correctly. This non-DRL harness must receive power from your vehicle's battery (the red wire with in-line fuse) and must have a chassis ground for each headlight. We recommend you use the left side H4 plug for the non-DRL harness since the vehicle's battery is located on that side (to clarify, the non-DRL harness only has a single H4 plug and powers both sides). Additionally, a resistor harness is also included to make the dash high beam blue indicator function. The resistor harness can be plugged into the headlight (H4) socket on either side. I recommend the right side since you likely have more room there (nothing needs to be plugged in to the resistor harness if you're doing it on the right side but if you are installing the resistor harness on the left side then it should be vehicle H4 to resistor harness to non-DRL harness). See photo below for non-DRL harness.

Halos, Demon Eyes, LED Strips and Bluetooth Controllers Overview

Because there are several ways to wire the accent lighting in your retrofit based on your preferences concerning how and when they turn on, custom wiring is required for the halos, demon eyes and LED strips to function. If you are NOT experienced with automotive electrical wiring we highly recommend that you seek help from someone who is. We are not responsible for any damage to your retrofits and/or vehicle due to installer error (please see the warranty info page for additional information). As previously stated, we've tried to make the wiring as easy to understand as possible. The amount of connectors on the back of the headlight assembly will obviously vary based on how many halos, demon eyes, LED strips, etc. are in your particular retrofit model. Any connectors that are identical types and oriented the same way will be labeled for your convenience. Labels are also used on the non-obvious wires on the bluetooth controllers. For example, the photo below shows a Halo bluetooth controller with labels for right turn signal input, left turn signal input, right front halo output, left front halo output and auto shut off trigger wire (white wire). The red is obviously for power and black is for ground. The controllers themselves are also labeled so that you know which one controls which accent light.

On one side of any of the bluetooth controller styles is a QR code that points you to the associated iOS/Android app (see below photo).

Below is what a demon eye bluetooth controller looks like. Since demon eyes are not right and left side specific, the connectors are not labeled.

Bluetooth Controller Apps

Below are videos that walk you through the basics of the Magicstrip app and the LED LAMP amp. Your retrofit model may use either one or both of these apps. Scan the QR code located on the controller box to determine which app(s) you need. Generally, halos and demon eyes use the Magicstrip app and LED strips use the LED LAMP app.